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CODE meets Dominique Ansel

Published 17 February 2020

World-renowned pastry chef and inventor of the Cronut Dominique Ansel recently opened his latest venture in Covent Garden: Dominique Ansel Treehouse. CODE’s Harriet Prior chatted to chef Dominique about the decision to create an entirely new concept, how he maintains quality across all his locations and advice for those starting out in the industry.

Could you tell us more about your new project, Dominique Ansel Treehouse?

Treehouse is our second London location, after our bakery in Belgravia. We always ask pastry chefs to contribute to the savoury side in restaurants and require their precise techniques, so we wanted to showcase the skills of pastry chefs.

The concept includes a small retail shop on the ground floor and a bistro on the first floor. The design is inspired by a treehouse, including lots of woods and drapes and things that make you feel at home. We’d like guests to feel really comfortable, and I wanted to create something unique and special.

What kind of food will you be serving?

We have handmade pasta on the menu, puff pastry filled with confit chicken and mushroom, we have a lamb pie (a more traditional British version). Everything is handmade by the pastry team – the menu really showcases the pastry chef’s talents, as we use a lot of bread and dough techniques.

Why did you decide London was the best place to try something new?

London is one of the greatest cities for food, as people really appreciate good food here. I didn’t want to replicate what we had in Belgravia, but wanted something new and refreshing and our customer base here is really receptive to change and to the events we put on. I also really like to challenge myself to do things I haven’t done before.

How do you ensure that the quality remains high across all your sites?

We have a system of checks and balances in all our locations: every morning our chefs photograph pastries and croissants and send them to us. We also test food every day to check the quality in every location, even if I’m in the shop.

How did you start out in the hospitality industry?

My mum was a terrible cook, so I’d always cook for myself and the family and I enjoyed it. My parents didn’t have money to send me to school after the age of 15 and I had no one to guide me, so I started working in a restaurant. I hated the first year, as I had a terrible boss who was very demeaning. The second year the restaurant got bought by a new chef and I started loving what I was doing.

What is the best thing about working in the hospitality industry?

Having the ability to be creative and share emotion with people you share food with. It’s not just about making and selling food – every meal should be a special one.

Would you recommend a career in hospitality to those starting out?

I absolutely recommend it. It’s not easy at all – like many careers you have to be better and stronger than those around you. With pastry, you have to be patient. It’s good to be able to show what you can do and grow in the industry.

My advice is, don’t be afraid of trying things you haven’t tried before and to ask questions. And don’t be afraid to be the new generation of chefs and lead the future of what we do.

Who has been the biggest inspiration on your career?

My wife. She came with me when I first opened the business and has opened my mind and heart to things I haven’t seen before, beyond food. She inspired me to dive deep into what I do and to have a different perspective.

Sum up your career in one sentence.

I would say I started from the unknown and hopefully got to a place where I’ve found happiness and joy.

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