CODE meets Marwa Alkhalaf, Nutshell

The power of food as a vehicle to spread joy and connect people is important to Marwa Alkhalaf, founder and head chef of Iranian restaurant Nutshell. This week, we hear more about the importance of bringing culturally vibrant food to London, the highlights of the past two years and why the best recipes are those found in the home.

How would you sum up Nutshell in one sentence? 

A high quality Iranian restaurant with the perfect balance of authenticity and modern flare . 

And how would you describe the food at Nutshell?  

Vibrant, fresh and modern food referencing traditional Iranian ingredients and techniques and bringing regional gems to the spotlight. 

You launched in 2019 together with your husband. What has your highlight been so far? 

In a year and a half, we’ve been awarded a Michelin Plate for good food. And, within our first year we received some amazing reviews from top London critiques; It really surpassed our expectations! To think, for a good section of that time too, we were actually closed, so it’s a real boost to our confidence to have made such an impression already. We can’t wait to see what there is in store for us once we can open again. 

You aim to bring more culturally rich, vibrant food to London. Why do you think that’s so important?  

With Iran dominating the news suddenly there is an interest in understanding this country beyond its politics. And, the best way to understand a culture is through its food. Whilst delicious still, before opening, the idea of Iranian food in London was rice and kebab, which ignores a wealth of dishes influenced by different ethnicities and backgrounds. Hence, we wanted to open a restaurant that sheds the light on multicultural Iran in a way to connect Londoners and Iranians on a human level with more complexity than before. 

And how have you found the past year, in terms of pivoting your offering and staying afloat?  

It’s been a tough year for us trying to adapt to every change the government imposes on us. The uncertainty and sudden changes certainly didn’t make it any easier to run the restaurant. However, we are always trying to stay relevant and maintain a close relationship with our loyal customers. We started offering feast boxes and later added some of our signature cocktails as well so people would enjoy a Nutshell experience at home. Managing the logistics of it has been a nightmare, but it all goes away when we receive the positive feedback from our customers and see them recreating our dishes at home. It’s also taught us a lot and proved that food is something that will always be a vehicle to spread joy and bring people some comfort. 

You were born and raised in Saudi Arabia and your husband in Iran. How has your heritage influenced the restaurant? 

I grew up on the East coast of Saudi by the Persian Gulf. Hence, the food I grew up eating is very similar to the southern Iranian cuisine as both sides of the gulf have been influenced by the same trade routes. However, I only came to this realisation after I met my husband. I had visited Iran many times before meeting him, but it was only when we started dating and I started visiting his family and friends that I discovered the amazing world of home cooked Iranian food and I immediately grew an interest in learning more about it. Between touring Iran and spending time in home kitchens learning family recipes, I discovered more about this rich ancient cuisine and the influences of different ethnicities and landscapes on the food. Hence, the food we serve reflects on all of that and we continue to research more and more hidden regional recipes to showcase the diversity and beauty of Iran.  

What is your favourite thing about being a chef? 

Experimenting with new ingredients and creating new dishes. Also, looking up and discovering regional recipes from rural areas; not only in Iran but all around the world.  

And your favourite thing to cook? 

Fresh seafood, maybe because I grew up by the coast but also because it requires minimal effort to make something amazing out of it. 

If you had to eat one dish for the rest of your life, what would it be? 

Fried spiced king fish steak and slightly overcooked plain rice topped with a generous amount of brown butter, served with a side of Louisiana style hot sauce and radish greens. My ultimate comfort food! 

And finally, where can we find the best food in the world?  

At homes where recipes are handed down from generation to generation. The power of cooking the same dishes over and over means that those home cooks end up taking them to perfection without ever even noticing it. Is there anything more perfect than that?  

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