Cook for Ukraine: Chefs Olia Hercules and Alissa Timoshkina have a powerful message, and are fighting the fight

It comes as no surprise that the hospitality industry is rallying for Ukraine. Cook for Ukraine, the foremost campaign set up, echoes Cook for Syria, which has raised more than £1m since its conception in 2016.

The new appeal was founded by the food writers Olia Hercules, Alissa Timoshkina, and Zuza Zak – a Ukrainian, Russian, and Polish dream team – alongside Unicef, to which all proceeds will be sent, and the social media star Clerkenwell Boy. Already more than £35,000 has been donated.

The aim is to raise awareness and to raise funds, but to also shine a light on Ukraine’s rich culture and history, which for so long has not been given the attention it deserves.

Events are well underway, including a talk from Olia and Alissa at Layla Bakery in Notting Hill on 8 March. The pair will discuss “food, women, Ukraine and Russia, peace and friendship”, and there will be drinks from the Ukrainian spirits company Dimas Vodka.

“I feel like with any war that’s going on anywhere in the world, people can get fatigued quite quickly and disassociate themselves from it”, Olia said.

“So it’s really important to keep the human element of it, and what’s more human than sharing food together?  

“I don’t want people to get stuck in the headlines and the bombs and to lose sight of the human beings behind this story. 

“Ukraine is such a fascinating country that not everybody knew about before this, full of gorgeous green meadows and rich traditions of cooking and culture. But it is absolutely urgent that we act now.” 

The group said any money raised will go towards helping the 7.5 million children currently under threat, and will support the delivery of blankets, warm clothes, and kits for hygiene, healthcare, and education. £32 pays for a large first aid kit, £46 funds an emergency water and hygiene pack, while £80 would buy school supplies for as many as 20 children. Like Cook for Syria, the target is to collect more than £1 million. 

“Unicef is perfect, because we will be mirroring the Cook for Syria campaign, which is a proven model and has been inspiring,” said Dr Alissa. 

“Hospitality is a strong mechanism to raise awareness and show support.

“We need to know the money is going somewhere legitimate, and quickly. What is happening is horrific and we want to support families, children and women in particular.”

She added: “Ukraine is at the heart of what we’re doing. We’re also shining a light on Eastern Europe more broadly.

“It is so complex. Much of it is still living in the shadow of the cold war and people in the west have such little understanding of the culture there.

“Sadly it takes a harrowing event to bring our part of the world to people’s attention – it’s another reason why this is all so crucial.”

The team want the industry to get creative, but are urging pubs and restaurants to add discretionary supplements to bills, host supper clubs, and put Ukrainian dishes on menus as a baseline. As far as the chefs go, a cookbook could well manifest, among their other projects and supper clubs.

Restaurants, bars, cafés and hotels are able to add voluntary donations of £1, £2 or £5 to the bill throughout March, and need only email [email protected] to get involved. A long list of participants has already been amassed, including Casa do Frango, Kricket, Wild Honey, Blacklock, Ikoyi, Fenn Soho House, Manteca, La Rampa, Kol, Fallow, St John, Sessions Arts Club, Da Terra, and Cocotte.

The Big Mamma Group, meanwhile, is one group that has laid on a special. Visit Gloria, Circolo or Ave Mario and try the bruschetta topped with Ukrainian salo (bacon/lard). It’s served with a shot of vodka. Officina 00 is making vareniki and putting it on the specials board, while Koya is to launch a Ukrainian-inspired noodle bowl. Eating both is a no-brainer.

CODE also spoke Dima, the man behind the vodka of the same name, and who kicked things off on Monday with a drinks fundraiser at the Ukrainian-owned Pinch bar in London. An impressive £5,000 was collected over the course of the night.

Dima’s father, who owns two Irish-themed pubs in Ukraine, is still in the country, just 200m from shelling. Hearing about such circumstances have an impact, and you can hear it in Dima’s voice.

“What we’re doing is obviously very similar to Cook for Syria”, Dima told CODE.

“It’s about raising awareness and inspiring people around the world to act. The aim is to raise money in any way we can. We want to bring hope to the younger generations.”

Dima also trumpeted the sentiment that Ukrainian culture should be amplified: “Less known about Ukraine than some other countries in Eastern Europe. We’re that much farther away. It’s never been more important to shout than now. 

“But it doesn’t need to be completely gloomy. We as a people find humour in bleak scenarios. And we also want to showcase our spirit. 

“Great character has been shown by the Ukrainian people – our fight will go down in history.”

There is, and will be, so much more being done for the cause. Ukraine’s people are facing immeasurable hardship and it is fortifying to see the industry step up. 

You can keep track of Cook for Ukraine projects on social media, via Olia, Dr Alissa, and Zuza, as well as Clerkenwell Boy, who is coordinating the drive.

He said: “Devastating scenes in Ukraine this month have caused widespread fear, distress and concern for the safety of friends and loved ones.

“Our mission is to raise valuable funds for the embattled communities, children, women and men who now have nowhere to go – no shelter, no food, and very little hope”.

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photograph: Cook for Ukraine