Monday Bulletin: John Javier’s answer to a culinary Berghain and Rafael Cagali’s new ‘relaxed’ opening

Catch up on the latest industry news stories of the week from the CODE Bulletin

The Tent

The chef John Javier will open his restaurant ‘The Tent (at the end of the universe)’ to the public on August 17. The venue, at 17 Little Portland Street, launched as a no-fee members’ club in February, but John has decided to expand his offering. The chef made his name at the acclaimed venue Master in Sydney, Australia, and until now has been best-known in the UK for his hyper-progressive take on Chinese cuisine. He said his latest concept will serve a ‘modern representation of Middle Eastern food’ in a 34-cover dining room, complete with a seated DJ. Berlin’s world-class Martion Audiosysteme, the preferred speakers of some of electronic music’s most revered institutions, will feature alongside a weekly changing menu. Dishes might include suckling lamb or mushroom shish; dairy cow rib with ras el hanout; and carabineros prawns with baharat spices. Drinks will come from a ‘concise but quirky’ list, ranging from Japanese whiskies to mezcals. The interiors, meanwhile, have been designed with a tent, or camping, in mind: dimly lit, with canvas ceiling awnings and star-lit, lunar-inspired lighting.  

The Laughing Heart closure

Hackney wine bar, restaurant and music venue The Laughing Heart has closed indefinitely, its founder Charlie Mellor confirmed. Sunday July 31 was its final service. Charlie announced the news on Wednesday night, writing that the business had ‘fallen victim to these dark times we live in’. Read more.

Elis, from Rafael Cagali

The Brazilian chef Rafael Cagali is opening a second restaurant, Elis, in Bethnal Green this autumn, building on the success of his two-star restaurant Da Terra. Named after the jazz singer Elis Regina, the restaurant will be a ‘relaxed interpretation’ of Rafael’s blend of Brazilian and Italian-influenced cooking, offering an a la carte menu and a relatively short selection of wines curated by Noble Rot. Read more.

The Wolseley Hospitality Group

In what was an inevitable ‘changing of the guard’ at The Wolseley Hospitality Group, Zuleika Fennell has confirmed to CODE that she has decided to move on. The managing director, who led the business for a number of years with co-founder Jeremy King, is switching to the travel industry. The group’s new owner Minor International has found her replacement in Baton Berisha, the former MD of The Ivy Collection and most recently D&D. Last week, it was also confirmed by the owners of Bicester Village that Café Wolseley will imminently close. 

Alpino

The British-Italian café Alpino, which has served Islington diners since 1959, will leave its longstanding premises and undergo a name-change. News of the departure, first flagged by Eater, came from Caffs Not Cafes founder Isaac Rangaswami, who shared photos of two whiteboards in the windows of the site declaring Alpino shut on July 31 because ‘the landlord has become greedy.’ The café will relocate to 1 Chapel Market over the road and is expected to open as Casa Fabrizi in September.

Come on Cycene

East London shop and cultural space the Blue Mountain School will open a new restaurant in October. Named Cycene, an old English word for kitchen, the restaurant will be led by chef Theo Clench, formerly of Portland and Akoko. Cycene is the replacement for Mãos, which closed in April of this year. The Evening Standard has more.

Birmingham news

Birmingham’s Central Methodist Hall, a Grade II listed landmark in the city centre previously home to the music venue Que Club, is set to be transformed into a ‘hospitality complex’ by Irish hospitality group Press Up. The group received approval to open The Dean Birmingham in the space, a 150-bedroom hotel with eight new bars and restaurants, creating 400 full and part-time jobs in the area.

Karen?

An Australian restaurant group with the tagline ‘we hate good service’ is planning a UK expansion. Karen’s Diner, famed for its ‘interactive theatrical experience’ that sees waiting staff tell diners to ‘fuck off’ (among other things), already has sites in Sheffield and Manchester, and is now planning further restaurants in Birmingham and London. Paul Levin, who oversees the UK branches, said the theme is based around ‘nonsense and escapism’. Sigh.

Dmitri Magi

Dmitri Magi, formerly head chef at Davies and Brook, is to lead Claridge’s new ‘culinary team’. As culinary director, the Estonian will oversee the relaunch of Claridge’s restaurant and the ArtSpace Café later this year. Claridge’s GM Paul Jackson said: ‘In order to maintain Claridge’s position as one of the leading hotels in the world, it is essential to constantly evolve and embrace change, whilst of course maintaining many of the traditional elements that make it so special and much loved.’ 

Gary Lee

Gary Lee has left Joe Allen, confirming speculation that had been circulating over the last week. Food writer Richard Vines was first to go public with the news, and Lee has since talked to The Caterer about his decision to step down: ‘It was time to move on. It was a good launch – I was there to help them relaunch it and help them to get it going. They’re great people, it’s a fun place to work, and the staff are lovely.’ Gary said he has ‘three or four things’ in the pipeline but didn’t provide any more details.

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