CODE Meets Gabriel Waterhouse

CODE caught up with Gabriel Waterhouse, founder of The Water House Project, his ‘social fine dining’ restaurant in East London.

It opened in September 2021 and dishes on the current nine course menu include ‘venison, date, shiso, coffee and chocolate,’ as well as ‘mackerel, horseradish, lovage and gooseberry.’

How would you describe the concept at The Water House Project? How important was the social aspect?

The Water House Project is a hyper-seasonal tasting menu setup, using the best from the British terroir, with as little wasted as possible. This sentiment extends to the drinks list; we infuse spirits with any leftover ingredients and all our wines are low intervention from across Europe. We have just changed our menu format from altering in entirety monthly to seasonally, changing certain dishes weekly but keeping the core of the menu the same for a little longer, to allow us the space to be more reactional to the produce we have available.  Our cooking style is about using uncomplicated and readily available ingredients from small-scale suppliers, in creative and unexpected ways.

The Water House Project first started in my flat in Bethnal Green, so the social element of it is at the heart of what we do. It has evolved over the years, from moving to a semi-permeant space on Mare St. to our permeant home now. I would say that the social element is more flexible now, people can choose to eat on a communal table or have their own space. The kitchen is completely open, and there is one service per night, so there is a coordinated synergy to the evening.    

Can you tell us about the restaurant space?

Our space is bright and contemporary in style but comfortable and warm in feel, it was very important for it to also be functional and have a natural flow to service. We want people to feel they are having a special experience but are completely relaxed and comfortable to be themselves. In the design itself, we considered all the senses, wanting to please each one, without overpowering them. 

What inspires your cooking?

I like to stay true to the ingredients that I’m using, and represent them in the best way possible, thinking about how we might pair them or how the dish works in the menu overall. I like the idea that a dish should be greater than the some of its parts, that’s the magic of cooking, and I think this extends to how a dish looks and smells too.

One dish of yours that everyone should try?

Our menu changes constantly, so I wouldn’t say I have a signature dish, more flavour or ingredient combinations that I return to. I love mussels, and one of my favourite combinations is with fermented Jerusalem artichokes, preserved lemon, mussel broth & chive oil. I also love using mackerel as it’s available all year round, it works well with gooseberries and horseradish. Another favourite dish is white asparagus with cherry blossom, fennel, and lemon custard; there is a small window for this dish, so it feels special. 

What’s the best thing about your job/ working in the hospitality industry?

Creating new dishes and exploring different flavour combinations is what I find most exciting. There are so many facets to hospitality, that it’s never just about the cooking, it’s about the people you work with, and the skills they bring to the table. I love how people celebrate all the different interpretations of how to feed people – from a white tablecloth service or street-side snacks – you can create all these different atmospheres which really all come down to enjoyment.  

Are you optimistic for the hospitality industry in 2022?

I think so, yes! It’s funny, after the scare over Christmas it’s clear where the obstacles are but I think it will be more straightforward this year. The hospitality industry just needs life to return to normal for it to flourish. The combination of covid and Brexit has made it difficult in terms of staffing, but I’m optimistic that we are resilient enough to get through this. 

What’s the biggest challenge for the industry right now?

Other than staffing issues, I would say one big challenge is the VAT changing in March from a 12.5% reduced rate back to 20%, this will be a big challenge for us as a business. A lot more needs to be done to protect and support the hospitality industry as the profit margins are already so small. 

Where can we find you eating on a day off?

I like to stay local;  Bistrotheque for brunch on a Sunday, The Marksman Pub, Sager & Wilde, Nopi and Gunpowder or if I am looking for special occasion, Da Terra. 

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