CODE Meets James Jay

CODE caught up with James Jay, head chef of the recently opened Sur-Mer at The Suffolk, to talk about the rise of Suffolk as a dining destination, and what he cooks at home. 

What inspires your menu at Sur-Mer? 

The amazing produce! We are lucky to have some of the finest seafood available from our Suffolk waters: bass, lobsters and exceptional oysters from Butley just five miles away. Ultimately, we want to showcase the best produce that Suffolk and the British Isles has to offer by using a no fuss approach. Honest cooking, uncomplicated dishes, minimal elements. I’m so excited to get going. 

How important is your relationship with suppliers?

We are working alongside local fishermen, taking their dayboat catch for our fish of the day, and sourcing the finest lobsters from Pinney’s in Orford. We have exquisite pork and charcuterie being produced by Dingley Dell, with a focus on its taste being the priority for Mark and Paul, the farmers there. We have Pump Street single origin chocolate and Fen Farm Dairy churning out the best butter and cheese. I’m particularly excited by our whipped Baron Bigod, game chips and crispy shallots dish. We work alongside a small grower locally supplying us with fresh, seasonal, flavoursome vegetables and salad, writing the menu around what’s available. Food miles and provenance are very important and by highlighting the suppliers on the menu we’re letting our guests know that they are being served only the best ingredients available locally. 

How is Suffolk as a dining destination?

Suffolk is an emerging dining destination with some fantastic restaurants, new and old. We have something for everyone, from fine dining places like Pea Porridge (Suffolk’s only Michelin-starred restaurant) to great pubs like The Unruly Pig, Number 1 in Estrella Damm’s UK Top 50 Gastropub Awards 2022. We’ve got great neighbourhood Italians like Watson and Walpole, to fantastic cafés doing fresh, exciting food like FOLK. We have small independents doing residencies/pop-ups and everything in between. Suffolk is most definitely the county to watch. With people moving out of London there’s certainly room for more great places to emerge. 

Any advice for budding chefs/restaurateurs?

I would say that budding chefs need to find a good mentor, listen to them and watch them work. Never be afraid of asking questions or feel ashamed if you don’t know something. Attempt things. Not succeeding is fine – just identify what went wrong and attempt it again (this for me is most important, you can only strive for perfection by not getting it right the first time). Read (I collect cookbooks, old and new, they’re a far better source of inspiration than the internet). Eat out at good pubs and restaurants, explore diverse food cultures, see what other chefs are doing, take inspiration from them; imitation is the best form of flattery, credit people where credit’s due. 

How can we make hospitality a more appealing industry to work in?

I think the tides are changing within the hospitality industry for the better. It’s important that we identify all roles in hospitality as careers and not just a stepping-stone or stopgap.

COVID has certainly identified several areas that are changing: the need for a better work/life balance, shorter working weeks – 4 days is becoming commonplace now. Investing in training around mental health and removing the stigma associated with it is important. I recently completed a level two certificate in mental health first aid.  

Creating an all-inclusive environment where everyone feels valued and unafraid to share opinions and ideas, not only within their individual workplace but as a community, sharing information, advice, ideas and knowledge, welcoming all, from chefs and growers to butchers, fishmongers and everyone in between. Working in restaurants must be fun, passionate and enjoyable – an extended family. 

Comfort dish you make at home?

A bowl of pasta, noodles or rice is always a go-to for me. They are so simple but provoke memories of going travelling and great times. Food is fuel but also an experience, so eating something as simple as plain rice transports me back to Thailand. A decent bacon sandwich is another thing that I can never get enough of. 

Death row meal? 

I think it would have to be the cheese trolley from Le Gavroche, warm crusty bread and Fen Farm Dairy raw butter with a good bottle of Port.  

Where can we find you eating on your day off? 

In my kitchen! Days off don’t tend to be focused on eating out at the moment as we’re so busy getting everything ready for Sur-Mer. My downtime is for family time and rest so it’s a strong coffee in the morning and a simple home cooked meal with my wife and kids round the table.