Sam Harrison, owner of Sam’s Riverside, discusses staff shortages in no uncertain terms

I have worked in restaurants since I was 16 (quite a long time ago) and still have such passion for this incredible industry and everything it offers. It has allowed me to work all around the world for amazing people and, through hard work, to open my first restaurant when I was 32. It has been my life for more than 30 years and I wouldn’t have had it any other way. This industry can offer incredible opportunities if you are willing to put in the hours and commitment.  

Hospitality can also be a career, a profession, a way of life. I always say: if you are good at your job in this game, you will never be out of work. How many industries can offer you that?  

But things are immensely difficult for our sector today, and I feel very strongly about where the industry finds itself now, especially with the terrible staff shortages. Brexit and the pandemic have created a perfect storm and we must try to navigate through it. Much of the industry is on its knees. Most of us are trying to rebuild after the last two years and grow our cash reserves again. So many of us were left hanging on by our fingernails and now, with the chance to trade feely and strongly, but with the increase in costs across the board, and a complete lack of staff, it is the hardest I have known it to be in my career. 

For many independent operators, their business will soon become untenable. Anyone who owns a restaurant knows how hard it is, but at least in the past you knew that if you worked hard and your product was good, there would be an upside. And it is from these independent operators that most of the creativity, fresh ideas and new energy comes from. Imagine a hospitality industry without that. 

The current government seems to me to have very little understanding of how serious things are, and if they do, they certainly don’t seem to want to acknowledge or discuss it. They don’t understand the small businesses and independent operators who make up much of the hospitality industry, and they don’t realise how hard it is for them to rebuild after Covid. If this is allowed to continue, we will see many hospitality businesses forced to close by the end of the year. I fear a total bloodbath out there.  

Likewise, I feel that big chain and group operators don’t talk about what is happening as they don’t want to portray negativity to their financial backers or the press. Many also have deep pockets that enable them to weather the storm. Large operators also have the finances and time required to set up visa sponsorship schemes – this is not something small businesses like mine can do. So where can we find staff? 

Two weeks ago, two Italians on holiday from Sardinia approached me about working at my restaurant. They are professional, skilled waiters who, as they can’t find work in Italy, want to come to London, work, pay taxes and contribute to the economy. But I can’t offer them jobs because they don’t have visas. And they would not be taking anyone’s jobs by coming – people here don’t want to work the hours required. 

Good employers are currently providing the best working environments I have known in 30 years. People are being paid very well, working fewer hours, getting more days off, and receiving great benefits and packages. But post-pandemic, many people just don’t want to work nights and weekends. Sadly, that doesn’t work for restaurants. This is what we do. It’s the nature of our business. 

While it is of course important to offer work-life balance, chefs, waiters and bar staff cannot work from home. I have a four-month-old baby, but I still have to work nights and weekends, because that’s when my business is open and when the customer demand is. I am amazed when people come in for an interview and say, ’I don’t work weekends’, or ‘I don’t want to work after 10pm’. Imagine if we had to say to our guests, ‘I’m very sorry, but we won’t be able to serve you desserts or drinks after your dinner, as nobody wants to work late’. 

I have been forced to close on Mondays, as I can’t currently sustain a seven-day-a-week business. I could take £10,000 to £15,000 on a Monday – and this means money lost to the tax man and the economy. My landlord continues to charge rent seven days a week. 

Almost every weekend I turn away outside catering and private event bookings because I can’t find staff who want to work weekends. I am having to personally work 70 to 80 hours a week, just to try and keep things going. These sorts of hours are not sustainable for myself personally, my family or any of my team. 

I don’t know what that the answer is, but the government could at least acknowledge the truth of this problem and give us some hope that they will do something to support and help us. They need to recognise hospitality work as the skilled labour it is and allow us to offer European work visas. I know it’s not as simple as that, but couldn’t it be? 

I thought dealing with the pandemic and surviving the last two years was brutal, but right now, it is beyond even that. 

Read more industry news here