Adam Hyman: ‘What does the 50 best restaurants list actually mean?’

Last Monday evening in a near-40 degree London, 1,000 chefs, restaurateurs and journalists gathered at Old Billingsgate Market for the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

The evening started well, with glasses of Gusbourne and snacks from Fallow and Mr Ji, and the awards – now in their 20th year – were hosted by Stanley Tucci, everybody’s favourite cocktail maker. He wore a pristine white dinner jacket, despite the temperature.

As expected, this year’s top spot went to the meat-free restaurant Geranium in Copenhagen. London’s only entrants in the top 50 were Ikoyi and The Clove Club, which made it to No. 49 and No. 35 respectively – congratulations to both. But should our city be more readily represented?

Every year, when this list is published, many, from both in and out of the industry, discuss what ‘best’ actually means. It’s always going to be subjective. What is clear is that everyone – well, almost everyone – enjoys a list. And the inevitable debate that follows. 

Much like any list, of any kind, we each have our own opinions. I guess that’s one of the beautiful things about restaurants and hospitality: one diner’s beloved restaurant could be another diner’s hell. It’s the same for a dish, an ingredient, even a wine. If we all liked the same thing it would make for a boring industry. So, bring on the awards, whatever they might mean.

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