CODE Bulletin Catch Up

Catch up on the latest industry news stories of the week from the CODE Bulletin

Feeling fruity

He’s been hailed as the “world’s best pastry chef”, and, with a £135 tasting menu comprising sweet fruits, elegant pastries, and elaborate floral tarts, Cédric Grolet has arrived in London with his first patisserie outside of France. Grolet quickly became a star in Paris after opening his first shop within Le Meurice in 2018. As of today, his fine creations will be available here, from “Cédric’s Counter” at The Berkeley, or from “Goûter” at the hotel’s cafe, a concept inspired by the French ritual of sweet snacking, and where five “fruits” and “flowers” – miniature versions of the chef’s desserts – are £90. Takeaway à la carte will be available, with pastries priced at £25 each. A pain au chocolat is £7. These are lofty prices, certainly. They are some of the most elegant and technical desserts going. There’s a reason the chef has 2.2m followers on Instagram. Grolet’s motto in his native French is, “le beau fait venir, et le bon fait revenir”, which means, “beauty brings them in, and taste brings them back.” Fitting for a 14 February launch? 

The Crossing

The pub and restaurant operator Christian Arden – the former owner of Sutherland’s in Soho and The Argyll on the King’s Road – has teamed up with Wild Honey’s Anthony Demetre to deliver The Crossing pub in Barnes. Formerly The Tree House, the space reopened late last year after a £450,000 refurbishment and the duo have pitched the place very much as a pub, with starters not straying beyond £13, and mains set between £12.50 and £24. The kitchen is overseen by Demetre along with head chef Alessandro Carulli, both of whom have created a menu that “uses the very best British ingredients” from suppliers including Daphne’s Lamb, Will the Fish in Dorset, HG Walter, La Latteria, Rye by the Water, and Natoora. On the menu? Mushroom and spring onion croquettes; slow-cooked Italian squash with grapes and parmesan; gnocchi with venison ragu; Dorset cod with baked leeks; and saffron risotto. The wine list is extensive but not exhaustive and bottles start at £23. Arden said: “Having known Anthony since Sutherland’s days, it’s great to be working with him, and between us we have assembled a terrific young team who are delivering a fabulous relaxed atmosphere and wonderful, simple food. This location in Barnes is ideal, and I am thrilled to have this opportunity.”

The Delaunay Counter

At The Delaunay, where the omelettes sing, is a new Counter concept with a menu “reminiscent of the European Alpine”. Dishes include traditional fondue and tarte flambées, Viennese hot dogs, charcuterie and cheese plates, Souffle Suisse, and tartiflette. A selection of “konditorei”, or confectionery, will also be available all day, “from a rich sachertorte to a classic apple strudel with whipped cream.” There are new cocktails, too, such as the pink grapefruit spritz and a gin number mixing Mother’s Ruin with kirsch, mint, cucumber and lime. They sound extremely light and breezy and no doubt that is the whole idea. Those who prefer something else might enjoy the German beers on draft, which will be served by the litre or half-litre, or any one of the 18 wines by the glass. An announcement said the new Counter, open between 9am and 10pm, is “perfect for a quick bite, leisurely afternoon or post work drink”. Does the reopening of the Counter signal a revival of workers returning to the office?

Small plates

Muriel’s Kitchen, the brunch spot from South Kensington, has been drafted in by the National Gallery to update the food offering. The restaurant will be called Ochre and will use “seasonal British ingredients, blending international flavours and modern European cooking”.

The restaurant group Tattu will launch in London next month, opening in the new Now Building on Denmark Street. Tattu, which specialises in contemporary Chinese cooking and has locations in Edinburgh, Manchester, Leeds, and Birmingham, follows the likes of Six by Nico and Mowgli in taking a gamble on London, having been established elsewhere.

A new report from Caterer.com suggests salaries for hospitality jobs have risen over the last year, increasing by up to 12 per cent for some roles, with a record number of hospitality jobs offering a salary of more than £50k. The website’s ‘Hospitality Hiring Insider’ found front-of-house wages have risen fastest as the industry adapts to improve staff retention and attract talent. 

Alium

The Cardiff-born chef Antonio Simone has finally spilled the beans on his new restaurant Alium. Simone, who made a name for himself at the Humble Onion in Dinas Powys, will launch the venture in Barry in mid-March, with a menu featuring dishes such as lamb shoulder croquettes with curry aioli; crispy chicken with peanut butter and pickled chilli; and pig’s head fritters with pickled apple and sriracha mayonnaise. “I just want it to be a time for us to shine really,” the chef told Wales Online. “Hopefully people can appreciate what we are if we’re in a bigger venue. People appreciate my food now, but it doesn’t feel appreciated enough in my eyes in respect to some of the places I go to and think ‘well that was average’.”

Daniel Scott

Daniel Scott has been named executive chef at D&D’s 20 Stories in Manchester. Scott has worked in hospitality for over 24 years and was in 2019 asked by Tom Kerridge to open the Stock Exchange hotel and Bull & Bear in the same role. In 2020, he joined Mana, Manchester’s only Michelin-starred restaurant (for now). The chef will develop a new menu at 20 Stories. To come are dishes such as seared pigeon breast, confit game croquette, beetroot and horseradish; spiced monkfish loin, puy lentils, cavelo nero, preserved lemon with red wine sauce; and ras el hanout cauliflower steak, romesco, shallot, parsley and capers. Scott said: “I have always been passionate about cooking and Manchester, which is developing a really exciting food scene at pace unlike any other city in the UK is the perfect place for me to continue building my career.”

Louis Ashok

Louis Ashok, who held junior roles at top level hotel restaurants before spending time doing chef agency work, is building a new “dining experience” in Notting Hill, serving “pan-African food” at events spaces and members’ clubs alongside live music and art exhibitions. Ashok, who is of Ugandan heritage, said he thinks there’s still a “big gap in the market” for his food, which is rooted in “high-end, progressive African cuisine”. On his menus will be classic and traditional recipes made “with French and Japanese techniques”. He said: “I will do things like Ugandan chicken luwombo, but I’ll take it further and do it in a new way. I’m excited because I do think there’s a movement happening and I want to showcase African food to a new audience”. Check out Technique London.

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