Published 28 February 2022
Catch up on the latest industry news stories of the week from the CODE Bulletin
The White Eagle Club in Balham has become a vital outpost for supporting Ukrainian refugees in London as charities and community groups step up their humanitarian efforts. In less troubled times, the Polish club on Balham High Road – home to a sizeable Polish community – serves as a restaurant, bar, and events space, but is now acting as a collection point for donations for Ukrainian people. Buoyant images on social media last night showed piles of clothing, blankets, tents, first aid kits, toiletries and other necessities. More will be needed – the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) said the total number of refugees who have left Ukraine now stands at 368,000, adding: “Our relief work relies on donations and the needs on the ground are immense…donations are urgently needed because every dollar counts”. Staff at the White Eagle Club said they will be sending resources to neighbouring countries such as Poland and Moldova as part of coordinated efforts. The club’s Magda Harvey said the response to the appeal has been “great”, praising the community spirit in the area.
Chef Rob Tecwyn and GM Adam Symonds are re-uniting to open a new Islington pub, The Baring, in May. The pair first met ten years ago, at the Bull and Last in Highgate. Since then Tecwyn has worked at Dabbous, The Henrietta Hotel, and Moro, while Symonds added Orasay and Six Portland Road to his CV. Both say The Baring will be a “neighbourhood local” – though in the sense of “promoting humble ingredients and seasonal produce against a backdrop of low intervention wines” rather than serving Kronenbourg and crisps. Symonds said: “I believe in the value of serving great produce with respect to the land it comes from. Whether vegetables, meat, wine, or beer this has to be chosen with appreciation for the integrity of the process, placing particular importance on sustainability and non-invasive farming. Opening a pub with Rob is an extension of our beliefs as well as a move to adapt to the changing times within our industry – placing staff wellbeing and quality of life at the forefront of a successful business and creating a space that is not only welcoming but also inclusive and inspiring.”
One of London’s more interesting modern pubs, the Jerusalem Tavern on Britton Street, Clerkenwell, has closed. The pub, apparently a long-time favourite of the area’s design crowd, was opened by the Suffolk-based St Peter’s Brewery in 1996, having been leased to the trader by the proprietor Julian Humphreys, who was behind the charming panelling, pews and tiles, all of which were installed in the early ‘90s as a romantic hat-tip to an 18th century coffee house. According to Eater, the pub will reopen under new management in the next week or so, but as the Holy Tavern. Beers will no longer be confined to those of St Peter’s, though some will remain.
Provisions Wine & Cheese, founded by the wine and food entrepreneur Hugo Meyer Esquerré, is opening a new shop on Hackney Road next month. Expect natural wines, raw milk cheeses, and “artisanal deli items sourced from some of the finest small suppliers across Europe.” There will also be a daily sandwich menu “curated” by Chef Maximilien Truel, formerly of Pollen Street Social and Frenchie. Esquerré said: “Hackney is the place I feel most connected to in London, having lived here since 2009. There is a real sense of community here, and the fact that there are many great restaurants, outdoor markets and specialty food stores has led the residents to be more curious and enthusiastic about high quality products and the story associated with them. The shop will allow us to introduce new and beautiful goods, such as farmhouse cheeses and real wines, to an already thriving hub of independent businesses.”
A new “accessible” seafood restaurant will launch in Manchester this March. Pesky, from food science and nutrition masters graduate Zaide O’Rourke, will open in Deansgate, serving small plates and a long and winding cocktail list. O’Rourke, a trained molecular mixologist and self-confessed “dinner party aficionado”, said: “Pesky is a celebration of life, community and creative food and drink. “I am so excited to start feeding the folk of Manchester, and hopefully I get to meet loads of friendly faces over some cocktails (or seaweed pale ale if that’s your thing) next month.”
The owners of Cail Bruich in Glasgow are opening a seafood restaurant called Shucks in the coming months. It will be a “relaxed” restaurant and bar in the city’s West End, using local fish from supplier John Vallance at Glasgow Fish Market, and with a focus on sustainable sourcing. In charge of the kitchen will be Shaun Haggarty, previously the head chef at Cail Bruich. He plans to combine the best of Scotland’s fish and shellfish with Asian influences and techniques. Paul Charalambous, the co-owner of Cultar Restaurant Group, said: “We are delighted to be opening up our fourth venue in our hometown.”
US chef and humanitarian José Andrés has set up mobile kitchens on the Ukraine-Poland border to provide meals for Ukrainians fleeing the Russian invasion, the Daily Beast first reported. “People of the World…Like you, I am distraught watching Ukraine under attack,” Andrés tweeted. “We must come together as a force for good! WC Kitchen is on Poland border delivering meals tonight – Romania soon. In addition to your donations…I am committing support from the Bezos award to Ukraine.”
Former Petrus head chef Larry Jayasekara is opening a restaurant in Mayfair later this year. The Sri Lankan-born Jayasekara, who has also cooked at The Waterside Inn and Le Manoir, has teamed up with Tim Jeffries, the director of photography gallery Hamiltons, to launch a restaurant at 27 Bruton Place and a deli and takeaway in the building opposite. Jayasekara said: “It’s been a bit of a roller coaster the past couple of years with Covid, but we’re thrilled to have exchanged on this particular site.”
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