Published 28 January 2022
by Josh Barrie
Months after relaunching Kaspar’s at The Savoy, Gordon Ramsay will open a new restaurant at the hotel. Ramsay told CODE he had changed “everything” at Kaspar’s, clearly because the place needed a monumental overhaul. Restaurant 1890 is a new spot entirely, and will occupy space above the lobby, adjacent to Bar Americain, which remains closed, apparently because of staffing complications.
It is intriguing that The Savoy is betting on another venture so soon after investing in its back-room dining room. Ramsay is a money-making name but brings with him no absolute guarantee of success. The Savoy is a historic, noble hotel but is not immune to the difficulties of today.
The concept, then, needs to be tip-top. A homage to the late Georges Auguste Escoffier is a good place to start. 1890 was the year he joined the institution and so began his perhaps still unrivalled contribution to contemporary high-end dining. No Western chef, at least not one in a luxury setting, can train without at least some of his traditional guidance.
Restaurant 1890, as fun as it might be, will not serve hard-and-fast classics – by which I mean the complete cooked by Escoffier in their century-old form. But many will be close, heavily influenced by the Frenchman – his signature dishes are the inspiration behind the vol-au-vent lobster with herb purée; caviar bisque; turbot veronique; and beef short rib with sauce bordelaise. There will be Champagne velouté to be found, no doubt.
“[The restaurant] creates a blend between unparalleled service, culinary creativity and exquisite wines”, said Ramsay, who also named James Sharp as executive head chef.
“The tasting menu is seasonal modern French with European influences, prepared with great flair under the very talented James Sharp and our hand-picked team.
“It’s the third gastronomic jewel operated by our restaurant group at The Savoy and we’re incredibly excited to offer this new experience.”
Sharp has most recently been cooking as senior sous at the Michelin-starred Pétrus, having joined the group in 2015 at the celebrity’s flagship on Royal Hospital Road.
He said: “It’s always been a dream of mine to run an intimate tasting menu restaurant in such a beautiful location.”
The restaurant will seat just 26 and has been designed by Russell Sage Studios in “glowing golds, reflecting the art deco”.
Franck Arnold, The Savoy’s MD, said: “With 1890, our third exciting collaboration with Gordon Ramsay Restaurants, our guests will have a wonderfully contrasting choice of restaurants within The Savoy.
“Aesthetically stunning, with an elevated menu as befits its surroundings, 1890 reflects The Savoy’s history of providing luxurious, innovative experiences and we are very much looking forward to its opening.”
Sarah Rhone has been appointed general manager following experience with Angela Hartnett at Limewood, and for the past eight years with Phil Howard – first at The Square and then at Elystan Street.