Published 3 February 2025
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London is to get its very own Permit Room, 15 months after the successful Dishoom spin-off made its debut in Brighton (swiftly followed by Cambridge and Oxford). The London branch, Dishoom’s eighth foothold in the capital, will open this coming spring in a four-storey Victorian property on Portobello Road in Notting Hill. The concept itself is an all-day bar-café that harks back to the ‘permit rooms, beer bars and drinking holes’ that thrived in 1960s and ‘70s Bombay when prohibition was lifted. The focus is as much on mango lassi punch as it is on bacon naan rolls. Dishoom and Permit Room are rare in being loved by critics and punters alike. As an “immediately besotted” Tim Hayward wrote in his FT review last month: “Much like Hawksmoor, often mentioned in the same reverential breath wherever restaurateurs foregather, Permit Rooms seems to be managing the complicated challenge of growing without going bad.” As with Dishoom, expect queues out the door.
A full year of celebrations is nothing less than Chris and Jeff Galvin deserve as the two chefs and brothers mark the 20th anniversary of their restaurant group Galvin Restaurants. There will be special dishes and events at all their venues: from Michelin-starred Galvin La Chapelle, and Galvin Bistrot & Bar in Spitalfields, to their country pub Galvin Green Man in Essex. Save the date for the main event, a gala dinner at Galvin La Chapelle on May 20, cooked by their former head chefs including André Garrett of Corinthia London and Joo Won of coming-soon Korean restaurant Calong. The Francophile frères will be reviving some old favourites as monthly specials at Galvin La Chapelle all year. This month’s is slow-cooked Pyrenees lamb, piperade, niçoise olive, and goat cheese ‘ravioli’.