Published 14 September 2021
by Josh Barrie
Thousands have been traversing the globe to visit the acclaimed Noma, in Denmark, for years. Michelin has this year decided René Redzepi’s Copenhagen restaurant is deserving of not two, but three stars, which means inspectors now deem the place “worth a detour” thanks to its “excellent cooking”.
Michelin announced the news in its Nordic guide on Monday. Noma, which has topped the World’s 50 Best list multiple times, was praised for its “strong connection to nature and its holistic approach” in crafting “creative and complex dishes.” It is probably fair to say that the quality of the food at Noma has never been under question. Redzepi’s progressive, near-mythical approach to cooking has long been sought after, imitated, and respected around the world.
Maybe now it’s that Michelin believes Noma’s wine pairings and service are worthy of top billing? The jump from two to three stars is possibly the most unassailable move in hospitality. Perhaps it is instead that inspectors, often derided for their too heady traditionalism and their old fashioned ways, were a little perplexed by a chef and a restaurant not averse to serving forest frogs, ox penis (with testicles), or indeed a tempura-fried bird’s brain in its own skull.
We don’t know. In any case, Noma is now a three star restaurant, so the moneyed Michelin junkies now have an even greater reason to fly to Scandinavia and even less chance of securing a coveted table.
Michelin said this: “René Redzepi’s urban oasis, Noma, in Copenhagen, Denmark, is promoted from two to three Michelin stars. It has a strong connection to nature and its holistic approach sees unusual seasonal ingredients showcased in creative and complex dishes.”
Redzepi hasn’t yet responded with anything beyond an Instagram post with a picture of him mocked up as the Michelin man.