Welcome distractions

As Jay Rayner pointed out before sharing his evisceration of Fletchers brasserie at Grantley Hall in Yorkshire yesterday, we all have more sombre things on our minds at the moment. There is less time for the consideration of high-end dining at the very least.

But then, as he also said, we do all need the occasional distraction, and there was no better way of doing so this weekend than reading Kirsty Bosley’s warm and affecting piece about experiencing her first tasting menu. It was shared by just about everyone, and rightly so.

Bosley’s writing is as much a joy as it is honest. She regales us with her dinner at Adam’s in Birmingham, where she spent about £150, well over her usual budget, but did not begrudge a penny. The food, she said, was exceptional, and the service charming and precise. I really hope she goes for another ludicrous dinner in Birmingham and writes about fine dining again. 

She will hit a dud eventually. Not every meal goes to plan and not all are worth the money, high or low. I’ve also been to Fletchers. Shaun Rankin’s place on the other side of the hotel, by contrast, is £130 per head (for food) – similar in price to Adams, in fact – and one of the best meals I’ve had in recent years.

Whether in a brasserie – a more successful and appealing one, you would hope – or a gilded sort of space, we can be endlessly thankful we have hospitality for comfort. It has its place in difficult times as the peak of the pandemic made evident in 2020. 

So, yes, if you haven’t read Bosley’s piece, do. And then, if you can, pop down to The White Eagle Club in Balham.

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image: @restaurantadams