Best bites: Grouse at Corrigan’s and an Ynyshir pop-up at Soho Farmhouse

Plaza Khao Gaeng 

At the risk of sounding dramatic, I’d say I’m addicted to spice. There’s a bottle of Tabasco on my desk that spikes most lunches. So when I heard about the ‘uncompromising’, ‘fiery’, ‘searing’ heat of the dishes at Luke Farrell’s Plaza Khao Gaeng at Arcade, I was desperate to visit. It didn’t disappoint and was easily some of the best food I’ve had this year. In fact, I’m suffering a kind of desperate pang of hunger as write this, reminiscing of crispy, turmeric chicken wings; sea bream with chillies and lime leaves; sweet, salty stir-fried morning glory; and tiger prawns in curry paste that hummed with heat. Please, please don’t be deterred by the prospect of proper spicy food – if there’s pain, it is worth it. I was with friends who find black pepper hot, and they managed to hold their own fine enough. Only a few tears here and there.
Molly Wade, memberships manager
Plaza Khao Gaeng is available on the CODE app

Corrigan’s Mayfair

In the past, it has become clear that some chefs fail to do the bird justice, but the ones at Corrigan’s Mayfair are well-equipped to cook grouse. After the restaurant’s journeyed lobster raviolo, always a fabulous parcel of an introduction, came a beautifully cooked piece of turbot, unimpaired by nonsense, and then the grouse. The dish centred on a single breast, not undercooked and humming of red trousered men, but tender among classic berries and beetroot and jus. There was also a bao bun sort of situation filled with rich leg meat, a leg to nibble on, and a roaring selection of sides: game chips, crispy potatoes, cabbage, sweet carrots, and mash imbued with more butter than the entirety of Kerry. We drank a ‘94 cab sav from Napa, redolent of Sideways. Thank you, Richard. And so yes, as the great Amy Winehouse once said, grouse is not a losing game.
Josh Barrie, editor
CODE was a guest of Corrigan’s Mayfair

Benares x Hakkasan

Two iconic Berkeley Square restaurants. One menu. This was the proposal for a Monday night. On the preview of what will be two upcoming dinners in aid of charitable causes (Action Against Hunger; NHS Charities Together), Sameer Tanja of Benares and Andrew Yeo of Hakkasan prepared an eight-course menu showing off the historic connection between China and India. Highlights included Benares’ tandoori lamb momos and baked scallops, and Hakkasan’s signature smoked beef ribs and the glazed Chilean seabass. I’d get yourself booked in. All proceeds go to charity.
Henry Southan, social media manager
CODE was a guest of Benares x Hakkasan

Ynyshir pop-up, Soho Farmhouse

Not everyone shares my sentiment towards sweetbreads. The flabby, gelatinous glands, if treated properly, are a succulent delight, but it appears some can’t quite get over the texture, bouncy yet yielding as it is. My favourite for many years were deep-fried and from the masterful team at Ynyshir who were cooking at Soho Farmhouse’s food festival last weekend. I ate two glorious hunks accompanied by a gently spicy dipping sauce, served by Gareth Ward himself. A joyous experience made even better by the main man.
Mike Daw, partnerships manager

Block Soho

When it comes to Soho’s newest steakhouse, Block, more is more. Ribs, steaks, chops, lobster tails with a side of chips, corn on the cob. We warmed our stomachs with brisket croquettes and prawn popcorn and then dived into the mains. The ribs came away from the bone cleanly, the steaks were tender and the chops had a wonderful depth of flavour. It was a feast worthy of the name. Fortunately for the team here at CODE you can almost smell the kitchen from our office, so lunch time feasts can become a regular comfort as we settle into autumn.
George Gill, Operations coordinator

Read more reviews from the CODE team here