Published 28 May 2021
by the CODE team
From Portobello to Peckham, here are the best things the CODE team ate this week.
In what used to be Asma Khan’s Darjeeling Express on the top floor of Kingly Court in Soho, you’ll now find Imad Alarnab. The Syrian restaurateur who fled his country due to the war has opened his first bricks and mortar restaurant, Imad’s Syrian Kitchen. I’m not sure if I’ve ever eaten Syrian food before but the menu is full of recognisable foods such as hummus, aubergine and pomegranates with some great chicken and lamb dishes. Be sure to order the pistachio ice cream with candy floss to finish.
Adam Hyman, founder
Of all the casualties of the pandemic, it was a particularly sad day when it was announced Two Lights would not reopen. It had been the scene of brilliant birthday meals and impromptu weeknight dinners, always with warm hospitality and excellent food. So Chase Lovecky’s name in lights at P Franco was an exciting prospect, and better still to be there for the handover from Seb Myers. The seven-course menu of small plates was fish focused and the highlights were a beautiful dish of garlic butter squid and raw white asparagus, and the meaty, dry aged seabass with a deep, umami brown butter sauce and maitake mushroom.
Chloë Hamilton, head of partners & memberships
To Mei Mei for the launch of Makan, chef patron Elizabeth Haigh’s book, which is a fantastic collection of recipes from the restaurant and much more. Radiant Elizabeth and her team cooked dishes from Makan for friends and family including mini nasi lemak, crispy salt and pepper tofu and these chicken, mutton and beef satay – flavour bombs that make me long for a return visit.
Lisa Markwell, editor
For a farewell lunch with our illustrious editor Lisa Markwell, it seemed only fitting to head to JOY at Portobello – her pick of the outdoor dining spots. Over a rather blustery (read very windy) lunch we reflected on a past four years of life, work, and everything in between. The food was naturally sublime (the poached turbot with thyme, lemon and green goddess sauce being a particular highlight), but it was the company that was most important on this occasion. Thank you, Lisa, for making CODE’s editorial what it is and for always bringing the good vibes and laughter. You’ll be sorely missed.
Will Lake, COO
The clue’s in the name, the quality never drops in Shaun Searley’s kitchen. An exemplary lunch included the very best plate of simple asparagus, a lucscious dark onion tart tatin and this – the pork chop of dreams. And could anyone go to QCH without having those confit potatoes? Certainly not me. It’s good to be back.
Lisa Markwell, editor
Monday evenings are usually reserved for laundry and herbal tea but this week I found myself in The Tapas Room Peckham, savouring Spanish wine and small plates and I couldn’t recommend the switch more. The much-loved tapas joint has a scattering of sites across south London and Peckham High Street is the chosen spot for its latest haunt. Bright and lively, with large street-facing windows, we had a lovely evening sampling many dishes from the new menu including confit fennel with Asturian blue cheese & pickled figs and truffled wild mushrooms with quails eggs and PX glaze.
Molly Wade, memberships manager
It’s been nearly 13 years now since Londoners were first introduced to the Press for Champagne button at Bob Bob Ricard and it was lovely to see the restaurant so busy on Wednesday evening. A perfect spot for a celebratory meal or date night, head chef Tom Peters is still delivering the BBR classics such as the steak tartare with caviar and the beef Wellington to share. And with Dom Perignon 2010 at £24 a glass, there’s no excuse to stop pressing for Champagne.
Adam Hyman, founder