Published 10 June 2022
by the CODE team
At Noble Rot the other night – the original – my friend ordered two salads. Two large salads, I should say, at £8 a pop. The leaves were bright and generous but I’m not sure two massive salads between four is appropriate. Don’t be mistaken – I love salad, and the simpler the better, often. These were dressed only lightly and together a prime concierge to the cod’s roe on toast, the Comte beignets, the beef carpaccio and the Ortiz anchovies which were drowning as they should in olive oil. A burrata was also ordered. It came alongside peas, plump and firm. Stars among a tired moon. All of this was eaten quickly, but there were so many delicate spring leaves leftover afterwards. Nobody wants to see salad wasted. Relief came by way of sausages because suddenly the menu jigsawed neatly. There on my fork, juicy pork, a dollop of wholegrain mustard, slow-cooked lentils and a wandering ribbon of leek, all tempered by crisp leaves. Salad is vital isn’t it.
Josh Barrie, editor
Well, where do I start? Bacco is a special place to me. Probably in my top five in the world. A last-minute long weekend in Mallorca meant I was able to return to this enigma of a restaurant. You are greeted by a shop mannequin that has been decorated in whatever eccentric Venetian owner Jacob has decided that day. Today it was charity shop chic. Before you are sat at your table you are truly immersed in the wild world of Jacob’s mind. A dartboard with broken lightbulbs smashed into it, rocking horses, a grand piano with trinkets from around the world. Also a ceramic pig bathing in pasta. I don’t ever bother looking at the menu – Jacob tells me what’s special that day and I trust him. Before I know it, a ginormous Aperol spritz, crisp ciabatta slices and cold gazpacho are placed on the table. A great start. Then a bowl of fresh pasta with black truffle, and a lot of it. ‘We have one veal chop left,’ Jacob says. I’ll have it. Thank god I did. This deliciously juicy, savoury, perfectly cooked chop was served on a bed of smooth buttery mash and some greens. Really very good. Pud had to be a chocolate soufflé, which is a perfect way to finish. Oh wait, no it’s not: the perfect way to finish is with Jacob’s G&T that is bigger than my head and garnished with vanilla, rosemary and a slice of orange zest. I didn’t want to add a disclaimer, but I think I should. Jacob is an eccentric man. If you ask him to turn the music down, he’ll turn it up to maximum volume. If you’re late, he’ll be tapping his watch as you arrive. But he’s great. He’s passionate. He loves good food, wine and kind people.
Henry Southan, social media manager
The 11th arrondissement of Paris has transformed over the past decade into a hotspot for a more contemporary and creative nouvelle bistro, eschewing the old-school higher end brasseries of Le Marias or the Latin Quarter. At the forefront of this change was Le Servan, pioneering this neighbourhood’s renewed relationship with a younger generation of keen eaters, relaxing the formalities of the Parisian dining room, without sacrificing on service, décor, ambience or of course, food. The dish that stood just a little taller than the rest in a vibrant, assured menu, was a pork ravioli served with tender langoustines in a balanced ponzu broth. The dish is a confident display of cooking from a team who have led the way for nearly a decade, and continue to break new ground with a second restaurant, Double Dragon, opening later this summer.
Mike Daw, partnerships manager
This was my first time at Oklava, chef Selin Kiazim’s elegant Turkish restaurant in Shoreditch, and the open kitchen was busy: five chefs making five courses, each creating a kebab according to their own likeness (though adherence to this directive was rather, well, loose). We started with courgette and mint fritters, blackened kibbeh-like finger food to make me hungrier. Then, Shuko Oda’s (Koya) bright orange smoked trout with pickled kumquat and Anna Hansen’s prawn balls, laid on a feathery squid ink and coconut crepe. All dishes were thoughtful, but the star was John Chantarasak’s southern Thai chicken thigh and offal on ghee flatbread – so spicy, with pickled cucumbers and fresh-squeezed lime to cut through the heat. We shared one of these between three; there wasn’t a coriander leaf left on the plate when we were done. Embarrassing. Every dish will get a two-week slot on Oklava’s menu this summer. I know when I’d be going.
Rebekah Lodos, editorial assistant
CODE was a guest of Oklava
Nestled in the idyllic surroundings of south west Wiltshire is The Bradley Hare. I’m from this beautiful part of the world. Years and years ago I remember visiting this pub. The waft of stale beer, men’s urinals and lingering fag smoke is no longer. Instead, a pleasant country pub awaits. It has a clear market – if you are looking for burgers, fish and chips or pies, you’re going to be disappointed. Instead it is a menu that wouldn’t look out of place at a natural wine spot in London. I’m not too sure how I feel about this. However, the food was enjoyable. Very seasonal and tasty. Bang in season asparagus from a few counties north, paired with whipped cod’s roe. A fresh little lemon sole landed on my eating spot next. I’m a sucker for a whole fish covered in brown butter and stuff from the sea. Highly recommend for a quick detour past on your way down further west, maybe to Coombeshead farm if you’re a member of CODE!
Harry Cromack, accounts manager
The Bradley Hare is available on the CODE app
Bellefields in Brixton can be found tucked away down Stockwell avenue, a quiet side-street hidden from the sprawling crowds of the busy station and away from the noise of endless busses. It’s a respite of calm tranquillity wherein a friendly welcome awaits, and with it, gnocchi. It’s a rather simple but marvellous little dish of crisp edged gnocchi with creamy goat’s cheese, crispy onions and fresh peas. At just £7 (and with a 25 per cent discount thanks to the CODE app) this might be one of the best value plates of pasta south of the river.
Mike Daw, partnerships manager
Bellefields is available on the CODE app
North Audley Street is becoming quite the dining destination with the likes of BiBi, Roka, Mercato Mayfair and now the latest Ivy Asia opening gracing the street with its presence. ‘We’re not trying to be Roka, we want to be fun, and delicious,’ Simon Gregory, exec chef for the Ivy Collection tells us before the first course. Fun and delicious is exactly how I’d describe the overall experience that ensued. Highlights included the eccentric display of sashimi and maki rolls, and the rich wholesome clay pot prawn and tamarind curry. The wagyu beef with glazed shitake and truffle yakinku is sensational. Definitely DO NOT steal the trinkets on the table.
Henry Southan, social media manager
CODE was a guest of The Ivy Asia
It was blue skied bank holiday trip to Brighton for me this Jubilee and like any fleeting moment of sun in Britain, sunburn was on the agenda. Antidote to the sudden prickle of hot skin was a numbing dip in the English Channel and an ice-cream. Not just any ice cream though, oh no. This occasion called for a Mr Whippy. Cooling and sweet, it fulfilled childhood dreams in every lick of the cartoon cloud-like swirl. Of course the addition of flake is mandatory, let’s not be silly here, and the cheap chocolate still holds an air of wonder to me surrounding the playground rumours that it would never melt. I will say that I’ve never really been a fan of the cone (closely resembling the cardboard box it undoubtedly came in in both taste and texture) but nostalgia means I still wouldn’t change it.
Molly Wade, memberships manager
I was excited to visit Restaurant Ours for the first time, and with Toby Burrowes now in charge of the restaurant group I anticipated great food. It didn’t disappoint. The menu has been completely revamped with influence by the Riviera of the Mediterranean. Tender, juicy lamb chops served on tzatziki and flatbreads were particularly enjoyable as was the seabream puttanesca. Live music performances provided the soundtrack to the evening.
Henry Southan, social media manager
CODE was a guest of Restaurant Ours
Restaurant Ours is available on the CODE app