The best things the CODE team ate this week: 28 August 2020

The Zebra Riding Club

Robin Gill at the pass of the Zebra Riding Club in the brand-new Birch eat/stay/work space is a welcome sight. He’s masterminded a cosy, elegant restaurant at the discreet Hertfordshire retreat which both guests and locals have embraced and no wonder – a feasting menu which includes produce from their own farm and other local suppliers was amazing value and quality. Snacks set the tone, including grezzina courgette tartlets, grilled ox tongue with pickled onion and lovage and pan con tomate with juicy anchovies. The main course was all manner of lamby treats, and a blackberry ripple ice cream with white peach and a rosemary sablé to finish. Can’t wait to go back…
Lisa Markwell, editor

Racine Revival at The Chelsea Physic Garden

Henry Harris has always been one of my favourite chefs ever since I was taken to have dinner at Racine well before I started CODE. His French bourgeoisie cooking has clearly retained its fans as the garden of the of the Physic Garden in Chelsea was full of diners enjoying his Racine Revival dinner and a glass or two in the late summer sunshine. After a starter of Bayonne ham and celeriac it was his signature grilled rabbit with mustard to follow.
Adam Hyman, founder

Social Pantry Café

Slightly off the beaten track, along the long stretch of Lavender Road, we headed to Social Pantry Café. Well-known across London as one of the leaders in catering services we were unsure what we would encounter at Social Panty. To our surprise the Café is small and sweet but bright and breezy – a perfect brunch spot. The counter was crowded with colourful salads, generously stuffed sandwiches and numerous cakes, biscuits and pastries, but we chose to take a look at the daily menu anyway. Finally deciding on the Brixham crayfish on brioche with herb mayonnaise, we tucked in before enjoying coffees and chocolate sesame cookies and an unbelievably good brownie.
Molly Wade, partners & memberships

Bellanger

When it first opened on Islington Green, something about Bellanger didn’t quite click. Yes it drew in some well-heeled locals, but it wasn’t the buzzy neighbourhood restaurant it could have been, and the doors closed in summer 2019. Thankfully Corbin & King have brought it back to life with a more casual and affordable format akin to Zedel. For a late lunch this week it was as charming as ever and the two-course prix-fixe menu at £10.95 suddenly looks like some of the best value food in town.
Chloe Hamilton, members & partnerships

St. JOHN

A cherished institution on the London restaurant circuit, St JOHN has been pioneering nose-to-tail eating for 25 years now. It is quite understandable then, that when they announced they would re-open in August I swiftly booked a table. The restaurant has a reputation for keeping things simple but doing them incredibly well and this visit, like all of my others, demonstrated just that. Brown crab meat on toast soaked in lemon juice, along with mussels cooked in cider was a good start. This was followed by blood cake and fried eggs, served with greens and chips – deep, rich and incredibly flavoursome, my favourite plate of the evening. The wine list at St JOHN is also very good. If you haven’t been, I implore you do.
Ed Pettifer, events and Marketing

Blood cake, St.JOHN

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