Oysters, The Windmill
Carbonara, Emilia
Lamb rump with courgette and sweetbread, Black Radish
Spatchcock chicken, Casa Croute
Seafood linguine, L'Escargot Sur Mer
From Ivory House to the Isle of Wight. Here are the best things the CODE team ate this week.
North House, Isle of Wight
I have been lucky enough to spend lockdown on the Isle of Wight and over the past month or so have been inundated with friends looking for recommendations for their upcoming staycation. Moving straight to the top of my list is North House in Cowes (apparently Judi Dench stayed there whilst filming Victoria and Abdul at nearby Osborne House…) Lunch on the terrace provided the perfect setting to celebrate my first wedding anniversary. A glass of champagne, arancini and Nocellara olives were followed by roast lamb rump, Isle of Wight tomato salad (naturally) and roasted beetroot salad – all shared with my better half. The perfect light lunch on a warm end-of-summer day.
Will Lake, COO
Oysters, The Windmill
The Windmill
Those who love the Guinea Grill (and there are many) will love The Windmill, just a brisk walk across Bond Street. It’s got the same DNA – landlord Oisin Rogers, chef Nathan Richardson and sommelier Vladimir Olaru – but a slightly different, dare I say younger, vibe. The newly launched upstairs dining room is traditional wood and navy look but the menu has a few modish flourishes such as poached oysters, hot soused mackerel and a mushroom and truffle pie (phwoah). All the trimmings are pleasingly old-school, and although you may have to loosen your belt, make space for the stellar marmalade tart.
Lisa Markwell, editor
Carbonara, Emilia
Emilia’s Crafted Pasta
Emilia’s is named after northern Italy’s Emilia Romagna region, home to cities like Bologna and Modena. The menu is a combination of dishes from that region and further afield, and includes crowd-pleasers like pappardelle al ragu (this comes highly recommended) and carbonara made with fresh bucatini. The burrata with pane pugliese and heritage tomatoes is a must-order from the selection of antipasti, and, if you’ve got room for it after all the carbs, the salted caramel brownie for pud. There’s also a great list of very affordable Italian wines, and the negronis aren’t half bad, either.
Minna Gabbertas, partners & memberships
Lamb rump with courgette and sweetbread, Black Radish
Black Radish
Black Radish is tucked away in Wimbledon Village but would be equally suited to Greek Street or an East London warehouse. The refined combinations of techniques and ingredients in all four dishes shows chef Toby Cartwright’s fine-dining background, but with none of the pretence. Burrata with smoked corn was a particular highlight as was the flawless service delivered throughout.
Max Coltart, partners & memberships
Spatchcock chicken, Casa Croute
Casse-Croute
Despite the rain and wind, Bermondsey Street was a buzz on Tuesday evening with Londoners making the most of the Eat Out to Help Out scheme. Diners happily queued in the wet outside José, while customers were also happy to sit in the rain at Casse-Croute. Luckily we had an inside spot to enjoy their set menu that reminded me often the French food in London can be better than actually being in France, quarantine or no quarantine.
Adam Hyman, founder
Seafood linguine, L'Escargot Sur Mer
L’escargot Sur Mer
With holidays abroad cancelled and months spent at home, I decided a change of scene was necessary over the bank holiday weekend (along with 18 million others, if the news is to be believed). My travels took me to the quaint Suffolk seaside town of Aldeburgh, and I would be lying if I said L’Escargot Sur Mer didn’t play a part in my decision. The pop-up was everything I expected and more, with the seafood linguine and lobster lathered with garlic butter everything I wanted and more from my first ‘proper’ restaurant experience post lockdown. It’s been wildly popular, so it’s no surprise that they’ve extended for the month of September.
Harriet Prior, editorial assistant
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